The Soul of Hong Kong on the Table: A Culinary Journey Between Tradition and Adaptation

International - Ekhbary News Agency

The Soul of Hong Kong on the Table: A Culinary Journey Between Tradition and Adaptation

At the heart of urban effervescence, whether in the vibrant alleys of Hong Kong or a Parisian establishment evoking its atmosphere, Hong Kong cuisine reveals itself to be much more than a mere sum of dishes. It is a sensory narrative, a living testimony to a history rich in metamorphoses and influences. It is this essence that the new book "Hong Kong à la carte," co-authored by photographer Ada Deschanel and private chef Davina Chang, seeks to explore, inviting the reader on an unprecedented gastronomic and cultural journey.

Davina Chang, born and raised in Hong Kong before settling in Paris, felt the need to recreate a fragment of her homeland in the French capital. This is how Bing Sutt was born in 2022, a space dedicated to Hong Kong cuisine, a true "Hong Kong bubble" as she describes it. Her collaboration with Ada Deschanel gave rise to an ambitious literary project, published by Solar editions, which goes far beyond a simple collection of recipes. The authors insist: it is "a gateway to discover Hong Kong's rich culinary heritage, its colonial influences, its cuisine with flavors enriched by migrations."

Hong Kong's history is intrinsically linked to its culinary evolution. What was once, more than two centuries ago, a modest fishing village at the mouth of the Pearl River, became a strategic trading hub, a British colony, then a refuge for exiles, notably Russian refugees after the revolution, before being returned to China in 1997. Each stage of this eventful history has left its mark on the palate, transforming local cuisine into a kaleidoscope of flavors. A simple bowl of noodles, as the authors point out, can tell a story of passage, exile, or an unexpected encounter.

From tomato and scrambled egg soups, a legacy of Western influences, to borscht, a testament to Russian migratory waves, through the emblematic egg tarts – cousins of Macau's pastéis de nata – and the essential array of dim sum, Hong Kong gastronomy is a palimpsest. It is discovered in iconic places such as Bing Sutt (traditional café-restaurants), Cha Chaan teng (popular restaurants offering East-West fusion cuisine), and the rare Dai pai dong (open-air street restaurants), of which only about thirty specimens remain, vestiges of a bygone era.

The very essence of Hong Kong's cuisine lies in its formidable plasticity. Nothing arrives "intact"; everything adapts, blends, reinvents itself. This capacity for absorption and transformation, more than the exact origin of the dishes, defines its identity. The foundation of this cuisine, however, remains the Cantonese tradition, characterized by the freshness of ingredients, rapid cooking, the delicacy of dim sum, steaming, and the intensity of searing woks. Added to this is a deeply rooted market culture, where live fish, daily vegetables, and seafood, stemming from a long maritime tradition, guarantee unparalleled quality. This solid foundation has allowed Hong Kong cuisine to assimilate influences from around the world without ever losing its character.

The book "Hong Kong à la carte" also offers emblematic recipes, such as the egg tart or har gao, those delicate shrimp dumplings. Davina Chang shares a revealing personal anecdote of this cultural fusion: her affection for Parisian flan pâtissier, which curiously reminded her of the egg tarts from her childhood in Hong Kong. A perfect illustration of how flavors can transcend borders and awaken deep memories, creating bridges between seemingly distant cultures.

For those wishing to extend the experience beyond the book's pages, several Parisian addresses are recommended, offering an authentic taste of Hong Kong: Bing Sutt (22 rue Béranger, Paris 11ème), Dimdam Maïdan (21 rue de Turbigo, 75002 Paris) for Dai pai dong dishes, or Restaurant Maison Mongkok (148, rue de Vaugirard, Paris 15ème). The Bake House bakery, founded by Grégoire Michaud, even offers fusion creations like the Char siu croissant or sourdough egg tart, testifying to the continuous innovation inspired by this metropolis. Works such as "Hong Kong Vegan" by Christine Wong are also cited to explore other facets of this culinary richness. "Hong Kong à la carte" is therefore not just a book; it is an invitation to savor the history, culture, and extraordinary adaptability of a global city through its cuisine.

Ekhbary News Agency